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Using a 1/4″ seam allowance stitch the pieces together just on one side until you have a line of outer pieces. Press the seams open. Stitch the sides Stitched sides Stitched pieces Step 3: Cut out your Lining and Fleece Add a pop of neon to your desk or shelf with these woven coil bowls. They’d also make a lovely handmade gift, perhaps a small bowl with a few rolls of washi tape inside? … it’s not long until Christmas! When you run out of yarn or want to change colours all you have to do is overlap the old and the new. As I was using three strands of yarn I cut each one a different length and inserted the new ones into the middle of them, so there wouldn’t be bulk all in one place. Do you love having printed crochet patterns? You can get the ad-free PDF of this pattern right here in my shop. Don’t forget to get a Crochet Pattern Binder while you’re there to keep all your patterns organized!
I was perusing YouTube when I came across this terrific project from Ae PooiM and thought to share it with you. I just love fabric bowls because you can make them any color or pattern you like. This project is a fun little fabric bowl that is simple to make but requires some hand sewing. You will become an expert at ladder stitch by the time you finish this cute little fabric bowl. Ladder stitch is a simple hand stitch that anyone can do. I will include a video to show you exactly how to do it so that your bowl comes out perfect. Once your base is sewn, it’s time to start sewing the sides of the bowl. Do this by holding the base of the bowl at an angle with your left hand as you continue to sew more rope onto the bowl. For a shallow bowl, hold the base at a 45 degree angle for a couple turns around the base.Keep sewing, creating a flat spiral base for your bowl. Your left hand will be turning the spiral base, while your right hand will be holding the new rope close to the spiral. Make sure that you are feeding the new rope so that where it meets the spiral is right in the center of your zigzag, see photo above. Continue sewing until the base is the size you’d like (remember, the top of your bowl will be wider that your base). If you’ve already cut your rope, use a little less than half of it for a shallow bowl, or a little less than a third of it for a taller bowl. Sewing the Sides Stitch in the ditch down each of the seams using a coordinating fabric. Since my fabrics are so different I used white on the top and red in the bobbin to solve the problem. Stitch along the seams Step 9: Create the Bottom Look for powdered or concentrated dye at the craft store or big box store. I found it was easiest to mix up a very small batch of dye in a plastic food storage container. Cut your cord to the approximate length you will need first, and get it wet, then coil it up and place it in the small batch of dye. I used two different dye techniques:
Round 10: ch 1, *(sc in next 8 sts, inc in next st), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the first sc. (60) With results this fast, the possibilities for gifting are also endless—no one will ever guess you didn’t spend hours hand cross stitching these lovely pieces! Spoons, one-hitters, and chillums are great pipe choices for smoking on-the-go. Glass pipes are small, easy to use, and don’t require water, making them perfect for the ski lift, around the campfire, at a concert, on the beach or even just on your friend’s couch. Smoking pipes like the spoon pipe have a straight stem with a bowl for dry herb. The carb cap on a spoon pipe is located on the side of the bowl. One-hitters and chillums are straight pipes where one end is the mouthpiece and the other end holds a small amount dry herb. There typically isn’t a carb on these smaller glass water pipes. All three varieties of hand pipes are very small and portable - the spoon pipe holds the most herb, followed by the chillum and the one-hitter. The stitches are less flexible than regular hdcs but we are still using a fairly large hook so the sides aren’t stiff like you’d want in a basket. You’ll keep working half double crochets but instead of working through the top 2 loops like normal, you’ll work under all 3 loops of the stitch below.As the fabric yarn tends to curl up I opened each piece up and inserted the new one into it. Then just continue on stitching. Every bubbler is a glass bong; however, not every bong is a bubbler. Bubblers and glass bongs are well loved for their ability to deliver a smooth smoke by drawing the vapor through water to filter and cool it. Although similar, bubbler bongs are normally much smaller than bongs, so if you want a pipe that splits the difference between a hand pipe and water pipe, a weed bubbler is a great choice since it can function as either. In other words, if you don’t have water available, a glass bubbler can function without it. This versatility makes glass bubblers pipes an essential part of any smoker’s collection. On the first and last bottom seam clip a snip to the stitch line. On the top seams clip the seam to the stitch line of all four seams. Clip the curve Step 6: Turn Right Sides Out
Place the two end piece right sides together and slip stitch the pieces together through just the outer fabric only. Open the seam so that it is flat. Using ladder stitch stitch the lining together to make an invisible seam. slip stitch the outer fabric together Ladder stitch the side Step 11: Add the Bottom Don’t pull the cord tight – leave a loop at the top (as in the image below). Then pass the needle through the loop. Just like blanket stitch.Cut a length of orange cord as long as you can manage it without it getting tangled, and thread the needle with it. Mine was about 2 metres (just under 2 yards). Turn the piece right sides out through the opening. Turn the bowl Step 7: Stitch the Opening closed Round 3: ch 1, *(sc in next st, inc in next st), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the first sc. (18)
The instructional photos are for the grey bowl with neon orange stitching, so I’ll refer to those colours from now on. Let’s begin… Round 14: ch 1, hdc between the posts of each st around (insert hook under all three loops of the hdc in the round below), join with a sl st to the first hdc (72) The bowl has a super simple construction. You’ll start with the bottom, making a flat round of single crochets. Stitch all the way around the outer piece through all layers using a 1/4″ seam allowance leaving an opening at the bottom for turning. Flip the piece to the other side and trim the fleece only down to the stitching line. Then trim the lining to match the outer pieces. Trim the fleece Trim the lining Step 5: Clip the Seam Allowances Then imagine other ways of using them—ornaments, pincushions, or just stitch the design color changes by themselves to make a flat cross stitch piece to frame or sew into a beautiful, quilted item.If you have a good idea how much cord you’ll need, you can begin by cutting your cord to that length. Otherwise, you can leave the cord attached to the roll for now and cut it when it gets to a size you’re happy with. If the end of the rope is quite frayed, trim it before you begin. Then curl that end of the rope into a flat spiral as you see below. Round 8: ch 1, *(sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st), repeat from * around, join with a sl st to the first sc. (48) Here you’ll find detailed instructions for how to make a rope bow. Below these instructions you’ll find a printable tutorial card that includes a video tutorial if you prefer to watch that. Please note that if you’d like to dye your cord you’ll want to do that the day before you plan to sew the bowl so the cord will have plenty of time to dry. I’ve included a few tips on dying at the very end of the post. Starting the Bowl
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